How do you know if your level is in fact – level?
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You finally decide to replace that old, inefficient, back door. Maybe it’s time to tackle that decorative block wall in the back yard. What about those steps from the deck to the patio, which have always looked a little off kilter? These projects all require a common tool – a level. You do have a level, right? Great! How do you know if your level is in fact – level?
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There is always the option of taking, or sending, the level to the manufacturer to have it tested. This would be time consuming and obviously expensive. Here is the quick and easy way to check your level.
Here is the quick and easy way to check your level.
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Find a wall that you can mark with a pencil and not worry about getting in trouble! I wouldn’t suggest the kitchen or living room. The garage is ideal. If you don’t have a garage, try a closet.
You can actually check your level for level (horizontal) and plumb (vertical) using this method. Hold the level to the wall where it reads perfectly level or plumb and mark the length of the level. Top or bottom, right or left doesn’t matter. Now flip the level 180° to the other side (again either level or plumb) and hold the level to the mark. Does it read level, or plumb? It does? Great, you have a true level.
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What if it doesn’t read level or plumb? This is where you have to make a decision. Replace the level, get it repaired, or use it as is? The type of work you are doing with the level will likely determine the proper course of action.
If you have a level (or can borrow one) that is “true”, you can use it to check the level in question. You may find that one side of the level is still fairly accurate. In this instance you can mark the side of the level that is “true” and continue using it as long as possible.
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Quick tip: Never leave a level on a surface (that you built) that isn’t level. Why? Because you don’t want some smarta## asking you why it isn’t level!
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Storage Hack: Use empty paper towel or toilet paper tubes for cord management. Simply fold the cord several times and push it down into the tube. Works great for rarely used kitchen appliances, extra power cords, etc.
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What do you want to know about DIY?
Do you have specific projects you would like to tackle? Not sure how to get started? Convinced that you won’t be able to get answers to your questions at the hardware store? Great! Tom wants to know.
Leave a comment or send an email to [email protected].
Check back to see if your question gets answered here at the Good Men Project DIY on Tuesday and Saturday.
Photo:Flickr/Tony Hisgett
Great advise about the “clamps” … that was the missing part of the puzzle in that every time I cut lattice, the darn thing would loosen up. I’ll keep you posted as to my progress.
My next project of any substance will be the fixing the veneer on kitchen cabinet doors. I have two Golden Retriever puppies (3 months old) that have managed to chew the corners of a couple of the doors. Fortunately doors are flat with no design on them.
Now that I’ve taken a closer look at it, it appears that it’s not the post but instead it’s the “string,” which is scary in that if it was just a post, the stairs would be somewhat solid, being the “String”, I’m going to have to pull the treads and risers? Fortunately the hand rail is attached to the posts.
The crappy part is that I’m going to have to take the lattice off which is a total pain in the ass because if I break it, It’s hell to cut at an angle.
Yes, lattice is a “challenge” to cut at an angle. If you have a piece of 2×4, a piece of 1×4, and four clamps you can simplify the process. Us the old piece of lattice as pattern to mark the new piece. If the old piece is damaged you should be able to use a straight edge to extrapolate the marks on the new piece. Once it is marked, clamp the 2×4 the proper distance from the mark to accommodate the foot of the saw you will use to cut the lattice. This distance will vary based on the saw.… Read more »
If the stringer is compromised you will need to remove the treads and risers to repair it properly. In all likelihood you will need to replace the stringer. It should be attached to the post at the bottom, and the rim joist of the porch above.
“Do you have specific projects you would like to tackle? Not sure how to get started? Convinced that you won’t be able to get answers to your questions at the hardware store?” Here is my problem.. I have a back porch (built like a deck). Anyway, the stairs are sagging to one side (maybe 2″) and it appears that it’s just one post that sank. I really don’t want to rip up all the steps (9 of them) railings and risers etc. Is it out of reach to simply get a jack and raise the one side and replace it’s… Read more »
Great question. Before I offer a suggestion, I have a question for you. Is the support/foundation/pier for the sinking post visible? Or is it below grade?
I got a laser level a couple of years ago and I would be lost without it. Works great for hanging projects. But I still have my standard levels. A little while back I was having problems with the stove not being level and couldn’t find any of my levels … (son-in-law had borrowed them). I ended up using a clean glass pie dish.
Good temporary solution. I have been known to resort to a glass measuring cup.
Great solution. Will give it try next time. I have a spirit level and laser level at home. They are essential to many of my projects.