Get your boards out.
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The origin of surfing dates back over 500 years. Scholars contend that the sport began in Tahiti, but the Hawaiian Islands are where the sport blossomed.
It was called the “Sport of Kings” because only royalty were allowed to participate at the beaches with the best breaks.
But you could break into the royal fraternity by showing your prowess on the commoners’ beach and being invited to surf with The Royals. Indeed, whether prince or pauper, the common thread in all surfers is that “They crave a different kind of buzz.”
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Surfing really started to spread when Duke Kahanamoku started travelling the world and teaching the sport in the early to mid 20th century. He was later dubbed “The Father of Modern Surfing,” and now ranks squarely in the Top Five “coolest Dukes,” along with Bo and Luke Duke, The Duke of Earl, and Archduke Franz Ferdinand.
But back to surfing. You can’t talk about surfing and not talk about the North Shore. In fact, it is the film North Shore that most aptly describes the North Shore and its epic break, Pipeline.
While most will never and should never attempt to surf Pipeline, surfing is a sport for everyone, and I do mean everyone.
And when you catch that one wave, you’ll be hooked for life. Don’t believe me? Ask this guy…
Like most sports, there are a select few who like to push the limits of mortality. Surf spots like Mavericks in Central California, Jaws in Maui and Teahupo’o in Tahiti are likely to make any surfer weak in the knees.
And then there are those looking for something even bigger.
Not only do surfers have to contend with huge waves and FBI dustups on the shore, but other natural elements in the sea can cause issue as well.
But don’t fear. The odds of getting attacked and killed by a shark are 1 in 3,748,067. In a lifetime, you are more likely to die from fireworks (1 in 340,733), lightning (1 in 79,746), drowning (1 in 1,134), a car accident (1 in 84), stroke (1 in 24), or heart disease (1 in 5).
I like those odds. So Hang Ten.
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Photo Credit: James Kraus/Flickr
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Also, that’s not a shark in that photo, but a dolphin 😉