What Every Man Should Know… About Style: 6/29

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  1. I am always interested to have this conversation if anyone is looking for a voice in the modern menswear world.

    -Iain Russell


  2. Most of my clothing (suits, blazers, slacks, shirts) are custom tailored. I take pride in being a well-dressed man.

    One I love how the clothing both fit and feel. This comes from the many choices in fabrics. Second, I do believe how you dress in part reflect how you feel about yourself as well as who you are as a man. Lastly, I am not a trendy or flashy man.

    I only occasionally will set foot in Neiman or Nordstrom. Usually, it is for accessories, cologne (Pour Monsieur or Bleu both by Chanel)

    I buy my own clothing period from shirts to shoes to ties (no stripe ties in my closet).

    • Most of our readers will never have had clothing custom tailored. Perhaps you could write about what that is like—take us through a typical visit to your tailor.

      • Justin,

        Sure. It all begins with the selection of a great tailor. What a very good tailor will do is measure you from head to toe: neck, shoulders, chest, arms (length), biceps size, triceps size, wrist size, stomach size, waist size, legs (length), thigh size, calf size. he or she will even ask you where you place your balls (how do you wear?) as you will need a little bit more room.

        So, now the tailor have exact specifications on your body. Next comes your selection of products (shirt, suit, slacks, blazer etc).

        Say for example you want to order some new blazers as I did last month, I choose the fabrics. Fabrics is key. Just as a the quality of the meat is paramount for a great steak, so is fabric for a great tailored blazer. There is a wide assortment here. I love Super 150s wool or Super 120. Various colors and patters are available (chalk stripe, basket weave, herringbone, solids. etc.

        Next is design. I prefer 2 button or three button with double vent. I like slanted pockets with once small pocket above regular pocket on left, also slanted. Also, my blazers have stitching around the collar and outline of blazer. Then you choose buttons. I like 4 buttons on each arm. Various linings are available for your blazer.

        It takes around 2-4 weeks to get the jacket done.

        The blazers I described above run around $800-$1000 each. Same process for slacks ans shirts.

        You get the perfect fit!

    • This idea intrigues me- it is a can of worms I fear opening- I’ve dislocated and separated one shoulder and even at my advanced age it is not uncommon to try on a blazer and be unable to bend my arm because of my biceps… If I buy a suit the pants need to be taken in 4 or 5 inches at the waist and I have absurdly short legs…
      I worry if I get one suit that fits, I’ll want all my suits to fit.


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