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NOTE: In this post, we’ll be discussing the functionality of mechanical watches and automatic watches — those powered by winding or movement, as opposed to quartz watches, which run on battery power.
A legacy watch is an enduring and timeless investment. These expertly crafted pieces are functional, great-looking and can run for generations, retaining or even increasing in value as the years go by. But like most valuable things, fine watches require detailed maintenance and repair to function at their top level, especially as they age. Whether you’ve inherited an heirloom from a family member, recently purchased a new mechanical timepiece or are considering buying your first legacy wristwatch, it’s important to know what goes into the care and conservation of these intricate machines.
This guide provides a basic breakdown of a watch’s functionality and a list of issues that frequently arise. Once you have a sense of how your watch keeps ticking, you’ll be better equipped to talk shop with a professional horologist (watch specialist) to get it the care that it needs and deserves.
How It Works
While luxury watch brands like Patek Philippe, Rolex, Omega and Tag Heuer often add lots of bells and whistles (“complications” in watch speak) to their models, their basic functionality is the same as that of the simplest wristwatch. And while the simplest wristwatch may appear plain, behind its face lies an intricate system of springs, gears, wheels and bearings that work together to keep you on time.
This system is known as the “watch movement,” and it consists of four main components: the mainspring, the wheel train, the escapement, and the balance wheel. While every brand has its own unique approach to constructing these respective movements, all watches contain the same general mechanisms. Here’s an overview of how each component works and how to diagnose a problem:
1. Mainspring
This tiny coil serves as the power source of your watch. When you wind a watch — either by hand in mechanical models or by wrist movement in automatic pieces — the mainspring tightens, storing up mechanical energy that (when released) activates the gears that operate the second, minute and hour hands of your watch.
What can go wrong:
Over time, the mainspring of a watch can warp and deteriorate. Experts refer to this as a “tired” or “set” mainspring.
How to diagnose a problem:
If you find that your mechanical watch is requiring more winding than usual, your second-hand keeps getting stuck in one place or your watch has stopped running altogether, you might be having issues with your mainspring.
What the pros will do:
A tired mainspring requires a replacement. Your horologist (watchmaker/watch repair specialist) can install a new one and also check the watch for other maintenance issues.
2. Wheel Train
The wheel train is a set of five gears that work together to temper the power provided from the mainspring. When the mainspring coil releases, it provides energy that sets off the first of these five gears. The gears are structured in different sizes with different numbers of notches to convert this power into controlled units of time. The second, minute and hour hands of your watch comprise three of these five gears.
What can go wrong:
Gears require constant contact to move properly. If a gear falls out of place, either by friction within the watch or a change in gravity (i.e., too much movement/flipping of the watch), this contact can be interrupted.
How to diagnose a problem:
If your watch hands are operating abnormally (hands misaligning with the numbers), you might be having an issue with the wheel train — specifically, a component called the “dial washer,” which prevents the gears from falling out of alignment.
What the pros will do:
A professional watch repair technician will peek inside the watch, replace the dial washer if necessary and realign the hands to accuracy.
3. Escapement
The escapement is essentially a “stopper” that divides the motion of the wheel train into regular, measured increments of time. It interacts directly with the fifth gear of the wheel train— the escape wheel — and the balance wheel (see below) to temporarily obstruct the motion of the gears in a fixed rhythm. It is the escapement’s interaction with the escape wheel and balance wheel that gives the watch its distinctive “ticktock” sound.
[The balance wheel/escapement is easier to view in a clock: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TqywUS9lRbI]
[Balance wheel/escapement in a watch: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-wKBGsy0VeQ]
What can go wrong:
The escapement works directly with several components that may affect its efficiency. If any of these malfunctions, it will impair the proper functioning of the escapement and, as a result, the accuracy of your timepiece. Friction is also a common culprit of escapement issues. As with the mainspring, wear over time can require a replacement escapement.
How to diagnose a problem:
If you find that your watch is running too fast or not running at all, this may indicate a problem with the escapement.
What the pros will do:
Sometimes, a bit of lubrication is all that the watch needs to get back on track. Other times, the escapement must be replaced.
4. Balance Wheel
Set on a tiny torsion spring (hairspring), the balance wheel works directly with the escapement in a cycle: As the escapement temporarily stops each gear of the escape wheel, it transfers energy from the gear to the balance wheel, moving the wheel back and causing the hairspring to coil for half a second. As the spring uncoils for another half-second, the balance wheel moves back to reactivate the escapement, which in turn moves the escape wheel gear one notch forward per second. This back-and-forth motion between the balance wheel and escapement comprises the “ticktock” of a watch.
What can go wrong:
Lots! This is one of the more delicate components of a watch and one of the most important, as it is integral to its timekeeping accuracy. Like other components, the balance wheel and its associated parts can experience wear over time and may eventually require replacing.
Other problems include friction and external factors like temperature, which can change the torsion of the hairspring, interrupting proper movement of the balance wheel; and jostling, which can shift the hairspring/balance wheel/escapement system into an undesirable position.
How to diagnose a problem:
Balance wheel problems can be tricky to diagnose, but if your watch isn’t ticking, or if you notice that it ticks when laying flat, but not when tilted, this may indicate an issue with the balance wheel system.
What the pros will do:
A professional watch repair technician will be able to lubricate the mechanism, diagnose and replace any faulty parts, and realign any components that have shifted out of place.
How to Keep Your Watch in Order
Most of these problems can be avoided with regular maintenance. Experts recommend getting your watch serviced every three to five years — especially for luxury watch brands, heirloom watches, and antique watches. A short visit every few years will maintain the efficiency and value of your timepiece. Take care of your watch and you can be sure that it’ll keep time for a long time.
For watch maintenance or repair, it’s imperative that you take your timepiece to a vetted watch professional. Myjewelryrepair.com works with certified horologists all over the country to ensure that your timepiece gets the best treatment with minimal effort on your part. Simply fill out the online form, schedule a courier pickup and send in your watch. Within three weeks, you’ll receive your watch in tip-top, ticktock shape.
REFERENCES
Crown & Calibur. (2019, April 23). What to look out for when buying a luxury watch [Blog post]. Retrieved from https://www.esquire.com/style/mens-accessories/a26729427/important-things-to-know-before-buying-a-luxury-watch/
Hamilton Watch. (2015, January 19). How a Watch Works (1949) Hamilton Watch [Video File]. Retrieved from https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rL0_vOw6eCc
Md Akim, Mohd Nazri. (2012, February 16). Balance Wheel, Escapement Wheel, Etc [Video File]. Retrieved from https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pdp04yU_DYc
Tourneau’s Our Minutes and Shutterstock. (2014, August 14). Solve the 10 most common watch problems [Blog post]. Retrieved from https://www.menshealth.com/style/a19543413/your-quartz-watch-questions-answered/
Varsano, Ami. (2014, October 20). Lego Clock Escapement with Balance Wheel [Video File]. Retrieved from https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TqywUS9lRbI
Watch Repair Channel. (2018, January 15). [Q&A #008] My watch hands are out of alignment – WHY? [Video File]. Retrieved from https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EvH7I2BPRgI
Wikipedia contributors. (2019, May 30). Mechanical watch. In Wikipedia, The Free Encyclopedia. Retrieved 18:46, June 6, 2019, from https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Mechanical_watch&oldid=899569805
Wikipedia contributors. (2019, June 2). Movement (clockwork). In Wikipedia, The Free Encyclopedia. Retrieved 18:47, June 6, 2019, from https://en.wikipedia.org/w/index.php?title=Movement_(clockwork)&oldid=899980401
Young, Lance. (2019) Watch Repair [Website]. Retrieved from http://www.howwatcheswork.com/index.html
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This content is sponsored by Mirko Bruich.
Photo provided by Mirko Bruich.